Rebody Z3 2.8 Based Ferrari 250 Build

@MisterP007 Great build thread.

Can I ask about your retro looking window winder handles. They're switches aren't they? How did you wire them? Did you run new cables into the door or use existing/unused cables?

Any scribbled wiring diagram to share?

Thanks
Ian
 
Duncodin said:
@MisterP007 Great build thread.

Can I ask about your retro looking window winder handles. They're switches aren't they? How did you wire them? Did you run new cables into the door or use existing/unused cables?

Any scribbled wiring diagram to share?

Thanks
Ian
Click to expand...

Hi there

On the 250 SWB the window winders are bolted on Triumph Herald winders (bolted through the back of the door car) and the windows are operated from momentary on - off - momentary on stainless steel toggle switches in the centre console.

On the 250 Cal they are momentary on - off - momentary on rotary switches bonded to the back of the winders. There is a description in my 250 California build thread somewhere.

Sorry no time to find it for you.
 
The wires on the original switches are
Left
brown
grey/red trace
white/green trace
blue

right
brown
grey/red trace
grey/white trace
black/yellow trace






the 4 wires on each switch are as follows:

Drivers switch
Brown.......................... Earth
Black/White................. Close signal to ZKE
Violet/White................. Open signal to ZKE
Grey/Red...................... illumination for switch (+12v on switching lights on)


Passengers switch
Brown.......................... Earth
Blue/Green................. Close signal to ZKE
White/Green................. Open signal to ZKE
Grey/Red...................... illumination for switch (+12v on switching lights on)


Ignore the illumination wires (if you wish)
Just connect an earth to the signal for the relevant movement, and it will go in that direction for as long as you hold the earth on it.



Wiring for rotary window winders




The door mirror wiring on the doors is
drivers
green/black
blue/black
blue/white
black/white

passenger.
blue/green
blue/white
blue/black
green/black


Rotary handles come from car builder solutions, I use MGB winder handle as they have a screw hole in them so that you can screw the handle to the switch.
The beauty of doing it this way is that you use the door mirror wiring for the switch so utilise the connection auction for the door wiring so no mucking about when you need to remove the door.
Don't forget to wire up an extra window switch for the dashboard to operate the passenger window or you won't be able to reach it.
 
A quick update on "The Beastie".

Overheating

Due to overheating issues (header tank exploded during MOT - EEK!), caused by not being able to get the electric fans to switch correctly. I have re-fitted the viscous fan set-up. Whilst I was in there changing the header tank and fan, I tidied up the plumbing, checking all the hoses, radiator, etc. for leaks, flushed and re-filled the coolant, bled the system and hey-presto no overheat issues.

I am getting used to the noise of the viscous fan now, and it does not seem to have blunted the performance much. I do not drive it like I stole it very much anyway, as I would like it to have a long life, and it goes very well without ragging it in any event.

Alarm System

The only remaining issue is the blasted BMW alarm system randomly going off for no reason after the car is locked for 20-minutes. I have tried with no result:

  • Replacing the bonnet alarm switch and making sure it is compressed with the bonnet closed
  • Fixing the bonnet switch plunger in down position with a small screw
  • Disconnecting the bonnet switch completely (Currently like this)
  • Disconnecting the tilt sensor - I thought this had worked but after 2-hours - beep, beep, beep.... (Currently like this)
  • The radio switch has a cable tie around it - is this the right way to do it or should I just disconnect it?
  • The interior sensor is no longer there as the rear view mirror no longer exists - maybe something in the wiring box I replace it with?
I have not checked the door switches yet.

The central locking works fine but I cannot lock the car due to the alarm issues. Not a problem most of the time, as I have secure, indoor parking near home where the car lives when not in use, and when out I always (nearly always) stop for beer/coffee/food where I can park in sight (and to show-off). It is however, a bit of an issue and the insurers may have something to say about it also.

Has anyone found either an aftermarket alarm that works, or a way to disable the BMW set-up?

Enjoying the great weather and the car.
 
Are you still able to use a key to lock the car? If so, use that. It won't set the alarm.

Any aftermarket alarm will work, but may need to be professionally installed to satisfy the insurers.

I have a VIPER alarm, but that was on the car before I got it.
 
A few recent pics:
Pingu said:
Are you still able to use a key to lock the car? If so, use that. It won't set the alarm.

Any aftermarket alarm will work, but may need to be professionally installed to satisfy the insurers.

I have a VIPER alarm, but that was on the car before I got it.
Click to expand...

I cannot lock the car with the key as the lock barrel is deleted when installing the mini handles, central-locking only. I think the key can lock the car without setting the alarm but I need to look up how?

Thanks for the input on the alarm.
 
Do you still have the boot lock?

My M Roadster car can be locked from any of the three external locks.

My kit car had the electrics to the door locks disconnected, but the boot lock still has the electrics. I'm sure if I reconnected the main door electrics (and overcame the deadlock problem that meant they had to be disconnected) they would lock as well.
 
Pingu said:
Do you still have the boot lock?

My M Roadster car can be locked from any of the three external locks.

My kit car had the electrics to the door locks disconnected, but the boot lock still has the electrics. I'm sure if I reconnected the main door electrics (and overcame the deadlock problem that meant they had to be disconnected) they would lock as well.
Click to expand...

I have the locking mechanism for the boot (sitting in the boot well) still connected to central locking. I could see if a hidden pull cord connected to the mechanism could be used as a defacto key to open the central locking if deadlocked. Also this may be the cause of the alarm going off as the latch is not closed onto the original latchplate/keep where there is a spigot which depresses the alarm microswitch?

Taking a look at the weekend......
 
Good luck with the sale, what next? 😁
May I ask you where you sourced the front foglights? Very nice build - I especially like the colour, that’s why I am painting my car with the same colour 😊
 
DirtyHari said:
Hi I am new to the forum and have read all Your posts on the 250 build. Is the car still for sale ??
Click to expand...
zroadster.org

For Sale - Ferrari 250SWB Replica For Sale £32500

Hi there, My much-loved Tribute 250SWB Ferrari Replica is sadly up for sale. £32500 buys you a fabulous slice of glory. Forum Build thread is here: https://zroadster.org/threads/z3-2-8-based-ferrari-250-build.45859/ For forum members I can talk money if you are genuinely interested to buy...
zroadster.org zroadster.org
 
MisterP007 said:
Hi all

The car is already finished as you can see from the pic in my profile, but I thought I would write up the build every day or two to show I got there (after bruised knuckles, blood, sweat, and tears). so day1.

Go and buy a perfectly sound 1998 M52TU28 in Montreal Blue, 108k miles been SORN for 7 years, £2250.
If the owners knew what I was going to do they would never have sold it to me!

Got it home and had a really good poke about, completely rust-free, the engine pulls well, interior like new.
Click to expand...
Hi Mister P007,
Love the thread…inspired me. Did I read somewhere you have a spreadsheet with all
The bits needed?
GRA
 
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