Rebody Z3 2.8 Based Ferrari 250 Build

MisterP007 said:
As for the Prancing Horse people, they can only get legal with a manufacturer (one of the big reasons Nubodi stopped I think), but a consumer/joe public can do whatever they like to their car and all Fezza can do is ask them to take them off. Not sure I would want to test the theory with a road trip to Maranello and Modena though. Nuts to think they feel threatened by a Plastic Replica when everybody can tell the difference.

Having said that we could both get away with it as we can just point out they never made the car we have built. As I say "the best convertible Ferrari never made!"
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Lucky it's not a Jaguar replica...

 
One of the guy's in a local car club has this on the front of his 1990's Suzuki car. It was found on E-Bay.

Maybe its one way to have an authentic looking replica and a bit of fun with the Fezza people.
 

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Zag2 said:
@GazHyde can you move this to progress thread section please.

@MisterP007 I think if you lock with the key then it doesn't set the alarm. That's what I do.
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No Z3 door keyholes anymore, all hidden by the door over skins. Makes things interesting!
 
NZ00Z3 said:
One of the guy's in a local car club has this on the front of his 1990's Suzuki car. It was found on E-Bay.

Maybe its one way to have an authentic looking replica and a bit of fun with the Fezza people.
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They are a laugh, you can also get a Prancing Moose for your Saab or Volvo!!!

moose.webp
 
MisterP007 said:
They are a laugh, you can also get a Prancing Moose for your Saab or Volvo!!!

View attachment 184715
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I did think about designing a whole set of badges/branding of my own based around a Highland Stag or some sort of sword from Lord of The Rings and use the letter opener size as the Grille Badge or the Stag Head, what do you recon?:

Sword.webp
stag.webp
 
@jaguartvr

Hi Steve,

Did you ever sort out the remote door release from a secret pull cord or switch idea you had for opening the doors In a deadlock situation?
 
Yes and no!
I ran an emergency release cable from the front of the bonnet to the door lock. This seemed to work well every time I tried it. However, for no reason the doors deadlocked and when this happened there was no way in except for removing the rear window.
The problem is the deadlocking if the replacement door handle puts any pressure at all on the original door opener. it will deadlock. The only way to open the doors when this happens is by using the door lock. If anyone is building one of these or a DNA 250, I would suggest a hole in the doorskin so that a modified long key could be inserted to open the door. You could use a rubber grommet with a fake keyhole to disguise it.
 
jaguartvr said:
Yes and no!
I ran an emergency release cable from the front of the bonnet to the door lock. This seemed to work well every time I tried it. However, for no reason the doors deadlocked and when this happened there was no way in except for removing the rear window.
The problem is the deadlocking if the replacement door handle puts any pressure at all on the original door opener. it will deadlock. The only way to open the doors when this happens is by using the door lock. If anyone is building one of these or a DNA 250, I would suggest a hole in the doorskin so that a modified long key could be inserted to open the door. You could use a rubber grommet with a fake keyhole to disguise it.
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Hmmm..... not great on the deadlocks, I wonder if I can kill the mechanical deadlock action in the door lock/actuator itself?

I did see a photo of someone who had drilled the door hole as you mention above, did not look great but it would save a massive hassle if the doors deadlock.

What about a secondary electric window switch (hidden in the boot) to drop the glass and gain entry? At least we could drive home.

Either that or some sort of concealed zip system on the rear window. The insurance company may have something to say about that mind you!
 
The original Z3 rear windows had zips, however, my roof is now new with a narrower and wider rear window sewn in so I won't be able to get in this way again.
In another build, the doors deadlocked fortunately when the roof was down but even with the key in the ignition the doors wouldn't open so a secondary window switch won't really help. I was lucky that I didn't have the door panels on and I had cut off the plate which is supposed to protect the door lock from thieves.
I did look at replacing the actuator with a simple solenoid system but it is the door lock assembly that locks the door which is the problem, not the door handle assembly.
 
jaguartvr said:
The original Z3 rear windows had zips, however, my roof is now new with a narrower and wider rear window sewn in so I won't be able to get in this way again.
In another build, the doors deadlocked fortunately when the roof was down but even with the key in the ignition the doors wouldn't open so a secondary window switch won't really help. I was lucky that I didn't have the door panels on and I had cut off the plate which is supposed to protect the door lock from thieves.
I did look at replacing the actuator with a simple solenoid system but it is the door lock assembly that locks the door which is the problem, not the door handle assembly.
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I will have to get my thinking cap on!
 
RE-Map, M54B30 Manifold and DISA settling in and the car is getting faster by the day. Had a friend in the passenger seat yesterday who, when accelerated flat out in 2nd, said: "bloody-hell! this is the gift that keeps on giving". Relentless acceleration.

Still have the really annoying exhaust/cabin resonance at around 2250 RPM. I have calculated the size of the Helmholtz Resonator (J-Pipe) I need and have the car booked in at Redhill Classics to make it up and fit on the 29th.

Anyone else who suffers from aftermarket/custom exhaust drone, take a look at this fantastic explanation of how to get rid of it (long video but worth it):

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5SY5oUTEcc
 
When the J-Pipe is fitted I will write up the results and add some pics.
 
Thrashing down the B-roads to Crowborough last night (oh the excitement of going to Crowborough - has to be the deadest town in the World!) and I get SCREEECH! Serpentine belt slipping.

Traced to the pipework I ran for the Oil Catch Can, a join in the pipe was leaking under vacuum directly above the belt run.

Quick clean up, ordered a 19 - 10 barbed brass adaptor to connect the 19mm ID plastic of the original Crankcase Vent pipe coming off the head to the new 10mm ID rubber fuel/oil hose fitted to the Catch Can.

Adaptor just arrived and so will fit this a bit later today, once I have finished working.

Connector.webp
 
Oh the fun and games of old cars!

This week so far:

1. Another oil leak onto the Serpentine Belt - SCREEECH! - traced to a huge flow of oil from the oil filter housing - the o ring was pinched on the back. Removed o-ring (fortunately had a spare in the bits-pile), added the new one in the correct groove, and gently tightened the cap into place.

Topped up the oil, ran for a bit to check, no more leak. Bit of Fairy Liquid a brush and a hose and all is well in the engine bay.

2. Alarm still being a pain. I have disconnected:

  • Bonnet Switch
  • Radio Switch
  • Tilt Sensor
Alarm still goes off. Now resorted to the lock and 2nd press of the key to disable the interior sensors. This works fine and the alarm does not go off. Trouble is, I pretty much now do not have an alarm at all!

Next steps:

  • Reconnect bonnet sensor, tilt sensor and see if all OK with them
If this does not give me at least some alarm, then scrap alarm and have aftermarket fitted.

Watch this space.
 
The UK Z3's have an internal Radar sensor. The USA Z3's did not get it. You will need a set of GB wiring diagrams. They are in the "Resources" section of this forum, on page 1. See the blue ribbon at the top of your screen for the "Resources" section.
 
Tomorrow is the long-awaited "Day of the J-Pipe".

The story so far:

Custom SS twin-pipe exhaust with quad tips and no rear boxes so quite loud. The original cat and resonator are still there. The noise is spectacular but it has an annoying drone at (you guessed it, right in the torque band) 2250-2700 RPM.

The cure:

Going to Redhill Classics to have a Helmholtz Resonator (J-Pipe) fitted tomorrow, I hope I have measured the drone and made my calculations correctly? EEEK!

The drone is 105hz, exhaust tailpipe exit temp when hot 275.9deg C, gives a pipe of 1160mm. hope I'm right. £90 and 50 minutes each way wasted if I'm not.

Pics and results tomorrow.
 
MisterP007 said:
Tomorrow is the long-awaited "Day of the J-Pipe".

The story so far:

Custom SS twin-pipe exhaust with quad tips and no rear boxes so quite loud. The original cat and resonator are still there. The noise is spectacular but it has an annoying drone at (you guessed it, right in the torque band) 2250-2700 RPM.

The cure:

Going to Redhill Classics to have a Helmholtz Resonator (J-Pipe) fitted tomorrow, I hope I have measured the drone and made my calculations correctly? EEEK!

The drone is 105hz, exhaust tailpipe exit temp when hot 275.9deg C, gives a pipe of 1160mm. hope I'm right. £90 and 50 minutes each way wasted if I'm not.

Pics and results tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Day of the J-Pipe yesterday.

1160mm 2.25" bore J-Pipe fitted by Redhill Classics (pic to follow, raining at the mo). They teed it into the original 2.25" system and swept it around nicely to follow the custom pipe to the driver's side of the car.

Did it work?

Yep, the drone is 80% reduced, still a little there but not intrusive. I can now hear the crackle of the exhaust in the 2250-2750 rev range which was completely drowned out by the drone previously. It has also quietened down idle-2500 revs a little and 4000-4750 (must have been some harmonics there).

So my calculations were right.

Anyone with an annoying exhaust drone take note. Here is the link to the science and spreadsheet/calculator again:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5SY5oUTEcc


Cannot beat a bit of science.
 
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