Sadly putting my Zed in storage, any tips welcome.

Smudgemanuk

Smudgemanuk

Zorg Guru (II)
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 1, 2024
Points
104
Location
Bicester, Oxford
Model of Z
2.8l TU pre-facelift z3
Due to a change in circumstances I am putting my beloved Zed in storage in my Grandma's garage for at least a year maybe two.

I will put my"plan of action" down below and I am open to feedback.

I plan to:
  • Give everything a thorough clean and scrub before putting in the garage (engine bay, interior, outside, underneath, wheel wells) and will ensure it is bone dry. It will be covered with a light breathable indoor car cover
  • Every few months start and drive the car for at least 15 minutes up and down the reasonably long private driveway ensuring it gets fully up to temp.
  • Use Bounce dryer sheets in the interior and engine bay and outside the car as a hopeful rodent repellent, I would really rather not use inhumane options for this.
  • Block up the exhaust tips and intake.
  • Premium fuel + a stabiliser. I don't know whether to brim the tank or barely anything (and then top it up when I want to drive it to dilute the old fuel). I know condensation can be a problem but surely it doesn't affect plastic tanks in the same way as metal.
  • Use a smart battery maintainer and will leave the battery connected
  • Run a dehumidifier in the garage and use silica beads in the interior, windows closed
  • Put my "old wheels" with old tyres on when it is sat to prevent flat spotting of my nice Michelins.
My two main questions:
The car will be on painted sealed concrete, should I put anything underneath the car to help prevent corrosion?
Should I brim the fuel tank (premium fuel) with stabiliser or mostly empty (and then top up before driving)?

Any other tips, advice or feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you
 
Are there any critters (rats, mice etc.) that can get in? Those are your enemies as well.
 
Smudgemanuk said:
Due to a change in circumstances I am putting my beloved Zed in storage in my Grandma's garage for at least a year maybe two.

I will put my"plan of action" down below and I am open to feedback.

I plan to:
  • Give everything a thorough clean and scrub before putting in the garage (engine bay, interior, outside, underneath, wheel wells) and will ensure it is bone dry. It will be covered with a light breathable indoor car cover
  • Every few months start and drive the car for at least 15 minutes up and down the reasonably long private driveway ensuring it gets fully up to temp.
  • Use Bounce dryer sheets in the interior and engine bay and outside the car as a hopeful rodent repellent, I would really rather not use inhumane options for this.
  • Block up the exhaust tips and intake.
  • Premium fuel + a stabiliser. I don't know whether to brim the tank or barely anything (and then top it up when I want to drive it to dilute the old fuel). I know condensation can be a problem but surely it doesn't affect plastic tanks in the same way as metal.
  • Use a smart battery maintainer and will leave the battery connected
  • Run a dehumidifier in the garage and use silica beads in the interior, windows closed
  • Put my "old wheels" with old tyres on when it is sat to prevent flat spotting of my nice Michelins.
My two main questions:
The car will be on painted sealed concrete, should I put anything underneath the car to help prevent corrosion?
Should I brim the fuel tank (premium fuel) with stabiliser or mostly empty (and then top up before driving)?

Any other tips, advice or feedback would be much appreciated. Thank you
Click to expand...
I take handbrake off and put into gear, but not sure that a tip, obvious or crap
 
I sit my car on four squares of cheap old carpet to keep the cold concrete away from the tyres for long periods.

If you can rotate the wheels a bit every few weeks that will help the tyres from cracking IMO.

If you put a dehumidifier in a normal garage (that is draughty) you are wasting your time. The dehum will be trying to dry the whole world.

The only issues with cars and condensation is if the weather changes temperature quickly (which it can in the UK). Basically if metal (or any product) is cold and the weather warms quickly, the car will form condensation, as the car doesn't warm quickly enough. Forced ventilation is the best (cheapest) solution when this happens.

If the car is under a soft cover take it off when the above happens, or the condensation will just sit there.
 
Detol wipes on everything you touch inc the seatbelt..you won’t believe how fast mould grows on the bacteria otherwise
 
I would try get some rubber mat or similar between concrete floor and car
Concrete is porous and will draw moisture leaving a potential damp micro climate under the car.

Stephen
 
Rudyrov said:
Are there any critters (rats, mice etc.) that can get in? Those are your enemies as well.
Click to expand...
I am not really sure, I kind of doubt it there is no evidence of them but I still want to be cautious and plan to use Bounce dryer sheets in the interior and engine bay and outside the car as a hopeful rodent repellent as I would really rather not use inhumane options for this.
Thank you
 
Pond said:
I sit my car on four squares of cheap old carpet to keep the cold concrete away from the tyres for long periods.

If you can rotate the wheels a bit every few weeks that will help the tyres from cracking IMO.

If you put a dehumidifier in a normal garage (that is draughty) you are wasting your time. The dehum will be trying to dry the whole world.

The only issues with cars and condensation is if the weather changes temperature quickly (which it can in the UK). Basically if metal (or any product) is cold and the weather warms quickly, the car will form condensation, as the car doesn't warm quickly enough. Forced ventilation is the best (cheapest) solution when this happens.

If the car is under a soft cover take it off when the above happens, or the condensation will just sit there.
Click to expand...
Thank you Pond,

Just to clarify what do you mean by forced ventilation, like fans?

Good tip on the condensation and the cover, I like that
 
Smudgemanuk said:
Thank you Pond,

Just to clarify what do you mean by forced ventilation, like fans?

Good tip on the condensation and the cover, I like that
Click to expand...
A small fan will move the air around and help to get rid of any excessively humid air. Or a 'through draught' will help if you can do that. Only needs to be when condensation is an issue.

FYI my car was not used for around three years. It had 3/4 of a tank of petrol when I got it (no idea of what grade or how old). The first trip it did with the ancient fuel in was to be MOTed, just a mile up the road. It passed emissions easily. I then kept topping the tank with 99 ron fuel to dilute the old stuff until it was all burned. No detrimental effects whatsoever.
 
As similar thread running, I store my Z in an Outdoor CarCoon Size 3 Large. Great bit of kit. Often available preowned on the bay of dreams or Gumtree (2 internal ones on there currently 1 in Fife, t'other in East Yorkshire)
 
If you can get a cheap CarCoon it will sort most of your potential problems.

I store outside, but a garage would be much better.

If I had a CarCoon, I'd do the following...

Handbrake off.
Tank full to brim of Shell V-Power to limit vapour. It'll still be ok after two years.
Axle stands and support suspension so it's in the ride position.
Unclip roof to take tension off fabric and rear screen (don't fold the roof, just unclip it).
Open windows about an inch (to allow ventilation).
Open bonnet and boot (to allow ventilation)

Drive the car to get it fully warmed up before storing it, and give it 24 hours to cool down (with doors, boot and bonnet open).

Disconnect the battery unless it's needed for security (alarm or tracker). If battery needs to stay on the car, use a trickle charger occaisionally.
Store battery seperately, somewhere reasonably warm, and charge it occaisionally.

Don't lock the car unless you need to for security. If you do lock it, use the key and make sure the key will unlock it.


Without a CarCoon, but inside in a dry garage...

Wheels off. Plastic bags over discs and as much suspension as possible. Tie wrap open end. Cut drainage hole in bag.
Close, but don't shut bonnet and boot.
Use humidity blocks inside the cabin and boot.
 
All good advice. I wouldn't bother with a cover as they tend to get damp which can create micro blisters in the paint. Dust is easier to remove !

I wouldn't bother starting and running the car to avoid condensation and rust in the exhaust system. Inflating the tyres to 50psi will help prevent flat spots and/or buy a slab of cheap 70mm polystyrene insulation, cut into 4 and place it under the tyres, they will create a supportive mould. Disconnect / remove the battery.

Buy three plastic plant pot trays and place two rodenticide blocks in each before putting them securely in the interior, engine bay and boot so other animals cannot get to them. You will be surprised where mice can get to and what they will eat.

For long term storage I run the fuel as low as I dare and replace with ethanol free storage fuel which you also run through the system. You don't need to fill the tank.

aaoil.co.uk

CFS Storage Plus 99 RON Storage Fuel | Ethanol Free Fuel

CFS Storage Plus 99 RON racing fuel is an ethanol free storage fuel for all types of vehicles, designed to keep the whole fuel system unaffected from ethanol
aaoil.co.uk aaoil.co.uk
 
KASPar said:
As similar thread running, I store my Z in an Outdoor CarCoon Size 3 Large. Great bit of kit. Often available preowned on the bay of dreams or Gumtree (2 internal ones on there currently 1 in Fife, t'other in East Yorkshire)
Click to expand...
Thank you, I shall look into that
 
An old tip from the Classic Car world: cover your windscreen in clingfilm and rest the screen wipers on it. Keeps dust and debris off the glass so prevents scratches and stops the rubber blades sticking to the glass.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top