Thicker Sway Bars

[c.smith]

Does anyone have experience of fitting this uprated Sway bar kit?
I have a 2000 Z3 Roadster 2.8 preface lift, and I'm looking for less body roll. Difficulty of fitting? Things to look out for?

 

[Smudgemanuk]

I replaced the D bushes and drop links on mine recently, so I pretty much had the anti roll bar off. It is not that tricky to do but I did manage to snap a drop link bolt.
I would recommend spraying WD40 on all the bolts for a few nights before you do the job and wire brushing the threads.

You might as well do the drop links while you are there and maybe consider replacing or treating the current D bush mounts as mine were a bit scabby

 

[c.smith]

I've actually recently replaced the front control arms along with drop links, but I will buy some rear replacements as well, what do you mean by D bush mounts? I'll get them soaking on the weekend, as I'm doing a full service.

 

[Smudgemanuk]

These things that secure the D bushes on the anti roll bar to the chassis

 

[c.smith]

Will I need those for both front and back?

 

[Lee]

Strongly recommend these for the Z3, they do lean alot I would fit those bars with normal rubber bushes so you do still have a bit of give.

I used to track my Z3 with a set of HnR and they were brilliant.

 

[Pingu]

I've done it to two cars. One is my M roadster, which now has an M Coupe rear anti-roll bar - no great problems.

The other was when I upgraded a 998 Metro to an MG Turbo rear ARB. Boy, was that a different story.

You need to understand the mechanics of what is going on.

Without an ARB, the side nearest the kerb wants to dip because of weight transfer and body roll. An ARB tries to make the suspension on the inside dip to the same level. It was "exciting" on the Metro, as the whole rear end dropped when I went round a corner.

Moral of story - don't fit an ARB that is too stiff.

 

[c.smith]

In terms of connecting the end of the aftermarket anti roll bar, how would you go about doing it? Because the OEM system is a pin into the bush, whereas the HnR anti roll bar has bolt holes.

I assume I would just put a bolt and nut through it?

 

[Lee]

In terms of connecting the end of the aftermarket anti roll bar, how would you go about doing it? Because the OEM system is a pin into the bush, whereas the HnR anti roll bar has bolt holes.

I assume I would just put a bolt and nut through it?

The front is very simple as the drop links are bolt on, so you can fit the bar and then the new links/old links.

The rear is a whole different story, remove the spare wheel for extra room to feed the bar in, you'll need to fit the drop links to the bar first as its a right pain to fit them after with the bar in place.

 

[c.smith]

Have you got a picture of what it looks like? I assume it's fit together with a nut and bolt right?

 

[Lee]

We fitted a set recently.

#ZedShed - MuttyMax’s Boston Green 2.8TU | BMW Z1 Z4 Z8 Z3 Forum and Technical Database - ZRoadster.org

 

[c.smith]

Thank you so much, that's actually super helpful!

 

[shera25]

I don’t have one myself, but I’ve heard they help with roll. Shouldn’t be too tricky to fit, just make sure all the brackets and bushings line up and torque everything properly.

 

[Delk]

I recieved a set last week and was going to put them in along with new wishbones and everything next month. I was thinking on just fitting the stiffer front bar first and see how the car reacts. At the moment the rear steps out really easy in hard corners and the car wants to oversteer easily. Besides reducing body roll was hoping the stiffer front would transfer more weight forward and ballance the car up a bit.

 

[GZed]

I recieved a set last week and was going to put them in along with new wishbones and everything next month. I was thinking on just fitting the stiffer front bar first and see how the car reacts. At the moment the rear steps out really easy in hard corners and the car wants to oversteer easily. Besides reducing body roll was hoping the stiffer front would transfer more weight forward and ballance the car up a bit.

Always wise to make one change, then monitor the effect

 

[the Nefyn cat]

At the moment the rear steps out really easy in hard corners and the car wants to oversteer easily

Then you definitely don't want a stiffer rear bar, it'll lift the inner wheel and make things a whole lot worse. Stiffer springs may help, only one way to find out.

 

[Delk]

Already running quit stuff BC coilovers. It helped with the handling and body roll but could still be better.

 

[AntStark]

Maybe it’s the 4000hp engine you have that’s causing it to oversteer.. I am no expert though

 

[Delk]

Maybe it’s the 4000hp engine you have that’s causing it to oversteer.. I am no expert though

It does help! I am also running 245's on the front and seam to stick really well. Never felt the car wanting to push the front in a corner and the tail will step out really easily. I think the handling has more in it if I can use the stiffer front bar to balance the car a bit more. Will find out in a month or two.

 

[Pingu]

It does help! I am also running 245's on the front and seam to stick really well. Never felt the car wanting to push the front in a corner and the tail will step out really easily. I think the handling has more in it if I can use the stiffer front bar to balance the car a bit more. Will find out in a month or two.

If you have 245s on the front, what's on the rear?

You could have found your problem.

The M Roadster was designed to be ballanced with 225s front and 245s rear. I don't know the sizes for the other variants without googling it.

Overall grip is relative. Too much grip on the front also means not enough grip on the rear.