How To Guide Stripping the panels off your Z

Tony Dean

Regular Member
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
May 8, 2014
Points
19
Location
Cornwall
Model of Z
2.8 M roadster
IMG_1014.JPG
Earlier someone expressed that it would be good to post my findings with regards to having a 20 year old Z. And the options I have made with regards ideas of Selling and getting a better one or working on mine and upgrading.

It always comes down to condition and economics. And what you would pay for a replacement Z.

The first thing was to look at the condition of my chassis. Mine is a 2.8 wide body in silver with 140K on the engine. Now the engine we all know is reasonably bullet proof but its at 140K so............. upgrade/new engine.

So any Engine work/replacement I knew I needed to looked carefully at her body so it would not let me down with any money spent.

When I looked at the economics I would get 3+K for her now (with all the wear and tear) and then I would have to spend 5-6k on a replacement car, in a condition I would want. I have owned her since 2008 which is nearly ten years and she has been a great little touring runabout. So she owed me nothing and maybe I owed her a little TLC...

All I can say is that stripping down your z down to her Knickers is really easy, if you plan properly.
Buy yourself trim removal tools and do not worry about saving the clips. You are more likely to damage the paintwork trying to save a clip....Buy all new clips and screws.
IMG_1654.JPG
The sills are off and surprisingly despite never having been internally wax oiled she is in good nick. The wax you see is the original wax protective dip.
IMG_1659.JPG
I noticed though that the small side panels are prone to mud ingestion so they need a thorough cleanout and re-sealing. I shall use Sika flex or similar before fitting them back. The Area you have to do this in is around the internal stiffening panel strut. It collects mud from the rear wheel kicking up (even with the mud guards in place)...
IMG_1657.JPG
This is the only are that seemed to have a panel that needed replacing. The rear drivers side quarter panel. The rest of it was restorable or if great nick just needing a clean.
IMG_1662.JPG


Underneath the rear quarter panel, it was really bad on the return sill. When I cleaned it all off the sill on the panel was nothing but holes. It was time to replace if I want that 5K miles look.

One interesting thing is for the rear quarter panel removal is you need two people. Someone should hold the boot lid. Because you have to remove the boot hinges and support it. This is simply because the boot lid is attached to the rear quarter panels. The good thing though is once the panels are off you can just put the lid back because the boot catch will hold it in place. DO tape it on as well though.... see towbar pic.

The other thing amongst all this wondrous planning I did... Was to forget to check the replacement sill condition. Sills was one other area I knew I should replace. They are Cheap and I bought them as "BRAND NEW" off of Ebay......I cursory looked at them when they arrived, they were right.
Only when I took the old sill off and compared both together did I find that one of them had been damaged in transit. So sadly that meant extra work a bit of panel beating and some filling to repair it. Its still a new sill, but this was annoying

IMG_1667.JPG


Like all Z owners I though while she is stripped down what else can I do..
I fitted a Towbar from Watling
IMG_1656.JPG


This is a great kit, took 2 hours to fit (follow the instructions explicitly). No "Cut out" to the bumper and standard electrical connecting so no relay required. When the bumper is on all you see (if you look for it, is the Square removable socket and electrical socket. She will now tow up to 1/2 tonne (no more) on a removable hitch and you loose no ground clearance. So a camping trailer, Jetski or Glider is ok. Overall you do not exceed 500Kgs

Overall this has been a really useful exercise. The car is nearly 20 years old. With 140K on the clock It told me that with this work done. I can look around for and engine replacement and upgrade at the same time. All in the replacement budget (with a little bit more in the pot) for a 3m class car. And With the engine and M50 inlet manifold and throttle body bore I already have on her sold, I can offset that against a rebuilt Engine of more power giving me lower mile comfort.

So I shall look to upgrade to an rebuilt S50 or 3.2 M engine, and make all the normal refinements to the suspension and breaking to handle 350BHP normally aspirated.

First thing though will be to get her back together and find that new panel.

update
Just bought the last rear quarter panel from BMW in the country!! £280 ouch
 
Last edited:

Ianmc

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
The M44 Massive
Joined
Oct 12, 2014
Points
165
Location
New Forest
Model of Z
Z3 (M44)
Is there a problem with the engine, 140K miles is not at all excessive for these if properly looked after?
 

Lee

Zorg Guru (V)
British Zeds
M Power
#ZedShed
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Points
193
Location
Basingstoke
Model of Z
Z4 Coupe 3.0si
Looks like an interesting build, I'll keep an eye :)

Be hard work and expensive looking for the M engines along with parts. There so sought after.

Lee
 

mrscalex

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Points
165
Location
Swindon & Swansea
Well done. Having those 6 panels and wheel arch liners off is the number one love you can give a Z3 in my view. And as you say it's not an enormous job.

It's behind those panels where the rot can start from accumulated deposits. So cleaning it all out is vital to the long term viability of the car.
 

Tony Dean

Regular Member
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
May 8, 2014
Points
19
Location
Cornwall
Model of Z
2.8 M roadster
IMG_1031.JPG
Is there a problem with the engine, 140K miles is not at all excessive for these if properly looked after?
No problems, but a good engine has real value to offset against the engine and power I want on the upgrade. And apparently converting the 2.8 to 3.2 is prohibitively expensive.

Here is a pic of the 50 manifold, bored out throttle body and Kuhn filter...

Ignore the dirt I live in country. I'll do the engine bay when I fit the new engine..
 
Last edited:

Tony Dean

Regular Member
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
May 8, 2014
Points
19
Location
Cornwall
Model of Z
2.8 M roadster
did you remove the wings without removing the wheels?
Much more sensible to remove the wheel and inner skirts.. The skirts are held on by 8mm self tappers with wide washers..
You can take them off with the wheel in place. But why not take everything off, clean it up and inspect every under the skirts.
My body work was ok but a sub sequential find was that I found out I need back plates for the brakes so.. Therefore it was an even better thing to do.. It would have only come up on the MOT or something like that. From here I will upgrade the braking system to M series brakes.

That way she's all ready for the bigger engine and power when it comes
 

5harp3y

Zorg Guru (IV)
British Zeds
Joined
Jul 10, 2015
Points
168
Location
Basingstoke
Model of Z
2.8
yeah i did the same, just wondering how you managed with the wheels on haha

What brakes are you fitting?
 

mrscalex

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Points
165
Location
Swindon & Swansea
Much more sensible to remove the wheel and inner skirts.. The skirts are held on by 8mm self tappers with wide washers..
You can take them off with the wheel in place. But why not take everything off, clean it up and inspect every under the skirts.
My body work was ok but a sub sequential find was that I found out I need back plates for the brakes so.. Therefore it was an even better thing to do.. It would have only come up on the MOT or something like that. From here I will upgrade the braking system to M series brakes.

That way she's all ready for the bigger engine and power when it comes
If you mean the splash-guards I don't think they are in the MOT. Well if they are I've seen plenty of horror stories let through.

You will of course need to take the wheel bearing off to replace the guards. Otherwise they'd be one of the first parts I'd replace on a car as they are always so diabolical.
 

Nodzed

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
M Power
Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Points
231
Location
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Model of Z
Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
View attachment 52641 Earlier someone expressed that it would be good to post my findings with regards to having a 20 year old Z. And the options I have made with regards ideas of Selling and getting a better one or working on mine and upgrading.

It always comes down to condition and economics. And what you would pay for a replacement Z.

The first thing was to look at the condition of my chassis. Mine is a 2.8 wide body in silver with 140K on the engine. Now the engine we all know is reasonably bullet proof but its at 140K so............. upgrade/new engine.

So any Engine work/replacement I knew I needed to looked carefully at her body so it would not let me down with any money spent.

When I looked at the economics I would get 3+K for her now (with all the wear and tear) and then I would have to spend 5-6k on a replacement car, in a condition I would want. I have owned her since 2008 which is nearly ten years and she has been a great little touring runabout. So she owed me nothing and maybe I owed her a little TLC...

All I can say is that stripping down your z down to her Knickers is really easy, if you plan properly.
Buy yourself trim removal tools and do not worry about saving the clips. You are more likely to damage the paintwork trying to save a clip....Buy all new clips and screws.
View attachment 52636 The sills are off and surprisingly despite never having been internally wax oiled she is in good nick. The wax you see is the original wax protective dip.View attachment 52638 I noticed though that the small side panels are prone to mud ingestion so they need a thorough cleanout and re-sealing. I shall use Sika flex or similar before fitting them back. The Area you have to do this in is around the internal stiffening panel strut. It collects mud from the rear wheel kicking up (even with the mud guards in place)...View attachment 52637This is the only are that seemed to have a panel that needed replacing. The rear drivers side quarter panel. The rest of it was restorable or if great nick just needing a clean.
View attachment 52639

Underneath the rear quarter panel, it was really bad on the return sill. When I cleaned it all off the sill on the panel was nothing but holes. It was time to replace if I want that 5K miles look.

One interesting thing is for the rear quarter panel removal is you need two people. Someone should hold the boot lid. Because you have to remove the boot hinges and support it. This is simply because the boot lid is attached to the rear quarter panels. The good thing though is once the panels are off you can just put the lid back because the boot catch will hold it in place. DO tape it on as well though.... see towbar pic.

The other thing amongst all this wondrous planning I did... Was to forget to check the replacement sill condition. Sills was one other area I knew I should replace. They are Cheap and I bought them as "BRAND NEW" off of Ebay......I cursory looked at them when they arrived, they were right.
Only when I took the old sill off and compared both together did I find that one of them had been damaged in transit. So sadly that meant extra work a bit of panel beating and some filling to repair it. Its still a new sill, but this was annoying

View attachment 52640

Like all Z owners I though while she is stripped down what else can I do..
I fitted a Towbar from Watling
View attachment 52646

This is a great kit, took 2 hours to fit (follow the instructions explicitly). No "Cut out" to the bumper and standard electrical connecting so no relay required. When the bumper is on all you see (if you look for it, is the Square removable socket and electrical socket. She will now tow up to 1/2 tonne (no more) on a removable hitch and you loose no ground clearance. So a camping trailer, Jetski or Glider is ok. Overall you do not exceed 500Kgs

Overall this has been a really useful exercise. The car is nearly 20 years old. With 140K on the clock It told me that with this work done. I can look around for and engine replacement and upgrade at the same time. All in the replacement budget (with a little bit more in the pot) for a 3m class car. And With the engine and M50 inlet manifold and throttle body bore I already have on her sold, I can offset that against a rebuilt Engine of more power giving me lower mile comfort.

So I shall look to upgrade to an rebuilt S50 or 3.2 M engine, and make all the normal refinements to the suspension and breaking to handle 350BHP normally aspirated.

First thing though will be to get her back together and find that new panel.

update
Just bought the last rear quarter panel from BMW in the country!! £280 ouch
Great write up.. But I think with what you want to do to this car you'll be close to cheap end ///M money. Buy an M and spend slowly getting that where you want it.
 

Slam

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
May 24, 2017
Points
168
Location
North Yorkshire
Model of Z
Zedless. Mini GP 1379
Really interesting thanks for posting.
 

dt7734

Zorg Addict
Joined
Apr 14, 2017
Points
50
Great write up:thumbsup:
How hard i it to remove the sill covers?
I'm looking at replacing both of mine.
 

lr_defender

Regular Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2020
Points
17
Location
Surrey
Back in January I was scanning the freeads and found a Schwarz (jet black)
2.0 auto one owner car that had done a genuine 39000 miles , with a full bmw history, had been garaged all its life and yes the one owner was the proverbial little old lady of 82 !

What the idyllic description didn’t tell you was that she needed to go to specsavers as apart from the drivers door, front quarter panels, bonnet and boot lid , EVERY panel was heavily scratched or dented. I located a black 1.9 facelift with a red leather interior, console and sports steering wheel with overheating issues. Initially I had thought I would drop another engine into it, but eventually decided that the 39000 mile cars need was greater.

Originally this ŵas a fun project to be done with a couple of friends - i have had Parkinson’s for ten years and the idea was that it could be on the road quickly so I could use it prior to my dbs operation which I was hoping would be scheduled for mid year.

The week I got agreement for my operation to go ahead was the week the Uk went into lockdown.what was to have been a group thing over a few beers became a one ( slow) man exercise.

I’ve done the interior and fitted the Doors, bonnet, front bumper, sills and front quarter panels onto car but they are needing alignment. Rear wings, bumper and boot are ready awaiting fitment ( didn’t want to fit these until what is already on the car is aligned. )

I have run out of steam but am desperate to get my car back on the road.

I’m hearing I need to fit all panels except sills finger tight, then starting from the bottom of the thin panel above the boot lid establish panel gaps the thickness of £1.50 ( pound coin and 50p) then remove the wings to fit the sills, but to remove the rear wings you need to remove the boot lid so I’m confused???
thanks Dave
 

Nodzed

Zorg Expert (II)
Supporter
British Zeds
M Power
Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Points
231
Location
Forest of Dean, Gloucestershire, England
Model of Z
Z3M Imola and Z4 (e89)
You dont need to remove the rear wings to fit the sills. Just loosen the bolts in the door reveal and remove the bottom hidden bolt. All the top wing bolts can stay tight maintaining your alignment.
 

mrscalex

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
3rd Party Trader
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Points
165
Location
Swindon & Swansea
You’re along the right lines if all the panels have been removed.

With the rear end fully off you only have that slim panel to go off. Panel gap is vital here. Although there is adjustment on the boot lid if the gap isn’t right you will be out of range to make the lock catch properly. I spent around 1-2 hours to get this right, after the panels were all back on, making fine adjustments.
 

bear2020

Zorg Guru (I)
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Dec 13, 2020
Points
93
Location
Norwich
Model of Z
Z3 3.0 & Z4 2.5
It looks you have done the project I am now about to start! N/S rear quarter panel is corroded and looks rubbish, I think every panel is scratched and its a car we want to keep for a while so with the Z4 being put on the road next year for the summer the project will be to return the Z3 back to her former glory as she needs some TLC. I think the previous owners enjoyed the pleasure of driving it and did the basic servicing and that was it.
I've managed to salvage the N/S sill but O/S looks like swiss cheese one I ground it down.
 

Bazza

Zorg Guru (IV)
Supporter
British Zeds
The West Country
Joined
Oct 15, 2013
Points
156
Location
Verwood Dorset
Model of Z
2.8 Roadster
Great video, thanks for sharing
 
Top